Beadell Tours Updates from 2011 to 2016
Beadell Tours Updates from 2005 to 2010
Desert Updates from 2000 to 2004
FROM 2017 to NOW
|A wonderful view|
|Lasseter's grave in 1931
Photo from the John Bailey collection,
link to story State Library of NSW
Hello again everyone. Thanks as always must be extended to our friends who travelled with us on our tours this year. The year was busy and eventful, with Mick and I at least having a wonderful few months of exploration and discovery. We hope everyone else did too!
As I mentioned on our Permits page (Permits), the start to our 60th Anniversary Gunbarrel Highway tour had to be altered at the last minute due to the denial of the APY Lands to issue permits to us. Instead we went up via Yulara and west to the border, on the way enjoying a very exciting detour led by Docker River Aboriginal local Sidney James (that is Sidney on the left in the photo). Accompanied by his quiet but enthusiastic cousin Stephen, helper and guide to Sidney whom he called his "malpa", they led us to the site where stockman & bushman Bob Buck found the body of Harold Bell Lasseter in 1931 and buried him (Lasseter was later re interred in the Alice Springs Cemetery). The site is now marked by a cairn and plaque, the latter placed in June 2003 by a party that included Harold's son Bob Lasseter (a fascinating fellow and a good friend of ours). Our trip covered spectacular country that included open plains, water holes and rocky ranges. The tour took about 24 hours in our case, with an overnight camp along the way. As an aside, prior to our meeting up with Sidney, both parties succumbed to flat tyres with Sidney replying to our apology for running late by remarking that their own flat "tyre never said sorry"! Sidney told stories of his grandfather who shook hands with Lasseter, keen to relate stories with as much accuracy as possible, very serious about the process of teaching and learning. Both men were very respectful of Lasseter. Later he passed on his own interpretation of the current state of Aboriginal affairs around the campfire that night, an enlightening appraisal of Sidney's ideas of how the two cultures should work together. Tours such as these are something the Central Land Council is keen to promote, so if this type of tour interests you then you can email the Aboriginal Tourism Development Officer, Patrick Hookey, at Patrick Hookey for more information and advice on applying for permits. The current fee for the guided tour, which requires "Special Interest" permits with CLC, is $150 per head with another tour on offer nearby for $100 per head, that one visiting a special rock art site. More details will be given to you on enquiry. Here is true Aboriginal enterprise at its best.
The remainder of the trip went off very well, our paid tour of Surveyor Generals Corner occurring just 2 weeks before the ceremony to mark the 50th anniversary of the placement of the original plaques on June 4th. Accompanying us was local Linda Eddy with 2 of her grandsons (one of whom is a member of the well-known Aboriginal Irrunytju Band. Linda took us to the nearby grave site of her Traditional Owner husband Lance Eddy, who knew Len as a young man, an area out of bounds for unguided tourists. After paying our respects we were back at the Corner, the stolen plaque on the far plinth to be replaced at the coming anniversary ceremony. Later that day we moved on for an interesting and productive tour of the Papulankutja Arts Centre at Blackstone, as usual our group purchasing some excellent paintings as well as locally made soap, greeting cards, bags and t-shirts. At Jackie Junction we finally replaced the deteriorating pointers with steel, made up by Mick at home, hopefully to stand the test of time (and white ants) for longer than the wooden ones. The tour concluded at Carnegie, the end of the Gunbarrel (not Wiluna !!!).
|The new Jackie Junction pointers||Historic Midway Well under water,
Our second tour started at Nullagine and finished at Coober Pedy and was during one of the busiest times in the desert that we have ever seen. Travellers detouring around flooding on the CSR flocked to the Rudall River National Park and later on dozens of vehicles were passed on the Anne Beadell Highway. It was good to see people appreciating the bush but this was something out of the box! The expedition this year was customer-free so Mick and I completed our final official expedition off-duty. We were saddened to close this chapter of our touring although we plan to continue to try and get permission for these very rewarding, challenging and informative trips.
We finished the year with a shorter tour along the Anne Beadell, down to Cook then up Goog's Track to finish at Kingoonya. All in all, the deserts were fairly busy, the flowers fair to middling, the weather mostly quite camping-friendly and the roads were in not too bad an order, even the Gunbarrel and Anne Beadell Highways!
Next year's tours are now set, so roll on 2019!
Safe travels, everyone
Best wishes, Connie Beadell
|New Beadell plaque on Anne Beadell Hwy border|
After another successful year in the desert we would like, as usual, to thank everyone who accompanied us on our little trips as well as those who gave us much appreciated assistance, including those involved with the granting of our permits. We replaced three of the Beadell plaques this year, one on the border of SA & WA on the Anne Beadell Highway (we have the original for safe keeping), at Everard Junction on the Gunbarrel Highway (this one replaced a replica of mine that was stolen last year) and the last on the eastern Gunbarrel at the northern end of Kintore Avenue as my replica from 2000 was badly scratched and the post looked dodgy from weathering and white ants. Mick shaved the post and I repainted it then we replaced the plaque. It looks much better now but it is one that we plan to eventually replace with a steel post for longevity. I have tried over the years to preserve historical accuracy in regard to maintaining Len's posts and blazes but for the future we will lean towards longevity. It is disappointing that the plaques continue to be a target for thieves and vandals (for example, who was the idiot who, many years ago, scratched "K" over many of Len's original plaques for all of our future "enjoyment" ????).
Our first little trip was another in the series involving Series Land Rovers, in this case four Series 1's and a Series 3. Once again the plucky little vehicles did a grand job up & over breakaways and sandhills in country near Coober Pedy. Well restored by their owners, they were in their element with only a few minor issues dealt with by the well organised owners, their spare parts and a little know-how. The dedication and co-operation from all those who participated was inspirational. In particular we would like to pay tribute to Mike who died of cancer shortly after the end of the tour; his courage and determination was truly remarkable.
The second tour included the complete Anne Beadell & Connie Sue Highways. The eastern end of the Anne Beadell had been scraped a year or two before our trip and was in good condition with a marked reduction in the size of the corrugations that usually made for a rather rattly trip (the scrape continued to Vokes Hill Corner then south). There was still some close scrub and wheel ruts with the usual windy bends west of Emu. West of Vokes Hill still had close scrub and light corrugations, the usual potholes and wheel ruts requiring attention to avoid, mainly in the shade of Mulga. The worst section of road was on the east side of Ilkurlka with very bad patches of corrugations (Ilkurlka was very busy with a Rangers conference). Continuing on to Neale Junction were the usual rocky patches, washouts, areas of sand and odd corrugations. The road to Laverton was pretty good where we had a welcome day off. The Great Central Road had major roadworks north-east of Tjukayirla Roadhouse but all in all the roughest bit was nearer Warburton. South on the Connie Sue was its usual picturesque self with areas of soft sand and moderate corrugations / washouts and rocky ledges around the breakaway country. We had permission once again to do a few detours off the main road which included lovely breakaway country, the whole area historically interesting for those aware of the exploits of the old explorer Frank Hann, Ernest Giles, the Elder Expedition of 1891 and oil & gas exploration of the 60's and 80's. The south end was slow as usual heading down through the Nullarbor, the Haig road south to Cocklebiddy very slow indeed, taking us about 4 hours or so to navigate the potholes and limestone, a few wet & muddy puddles included in the mix.
The expedition was another exploration of "free" areas of the Great Victoria Desert. It was successful in regard to the finding of many water sources and rockholes, many long forgotten and filled with rocks and dirt. Mick's slow and painstaking pre-trip research paid off once again and all found the experience very satisfying, a learning experience for all in regard to managing off-track travel and what the deserts have to offer (which is a lot if you know how to observe). Our final trip was another Gunbarrel Road Construction Party odyssey along the Windy Corner, Gary & Gunbarrel Highways. We included a trip up into the picturesque Rudall River National Park, Desert Queens Baths still an idyllic spot to camp and explore. The south end of the Gary Highway is alright but does have much close scrub, rocky ledges and detours around washouts and corrugations. The Gunbarrel Highway is excellent west of the eastern Wiluna Shire boundary, the rest to Everard Junction not bad after an old scrape but still with quite a few slow rocky ledges which continued, with the odd pothole, east towards Warburton. We had permission travel spectacular country through to Blackstone (the latter in the midst of a severe dust storm) and were made very welcome at the Arts Centre where a few of us bought some wonderful artwork from the very friendly Emma who had just arrived as Arts manager. Wingellina was bustling with a National Remote Indigenous Media Festival being held there but we managed to get a detour organised to Surveyor Generals Corner. From there we continued east on the Gunbarrel through APY Lands, Liane at Ninuku Arts also very welcoming, finishing the trip at Kulgera in the midst of a few days of heavy rain .
For more detailed information about the ins and outs of the vehicle problems click here for 2017 Trip summaries , the 2017 Vehicle Problem Report & for links to tyre information and the ongoing tyre repair experiments that Mick is currently running.
Roll on 2018; we wish everyone a safe year of travel and exploration.
Best wishes from Connie Beadell.
Please send any comments to Connie Sue Beadell
Mobile : 0408 841 447
Email : Beadell Tours
ABN : 40 947 959 130
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